Any resort with a reputation more undeserved than that of Torremolinos.

It’s famous for its crummy high-rise hotels, packed beaches, hordes of lagered-up lads, girls tottering in heels larger than their skirts, boys tomato-faced with sunstroke, bawling and brawling.

On the up: The beach at Torremolinos, which has been pleasantly spruced-up in recent years

But poor old Torre doesn’t deserve it. It’s firmly geared towards family fun: there’s a large aquapark, funfairs by the promenade, toy shops, games arcades and British pubs that have fish-fingers on the menu.

The council has been doing its bit, too, extending and improving the Paseo Maritimo, and decorating squares and roundabouts with various bizarre sculptures.

I’m staying at the Holiday Village just outside town; there are lots of pools, a children’s club, a couple of restaurants, a bar and a shop. 

In fact, there’s no pressing reason to leave the complex, especially for those with the all-inclusive package’s red wristband.

Clean-up: The streets and alleyways of Torremolinos are more orderly than 20 years ago

When I first came here 20 years ago, Combat Alley was the centre of the action — the top bit of the Calle San Miguel where you had to run the gauntlet of pubs, tables and drinkers spilling out into the street.

But Combat Alley has largely disappeared. It seems there’s only one big disco left in the centre, and a couple of lively British pubs, such as the Bailey. 

It’s now a normal, pedestrianised street lined with shops and boutiques. One evening, I fell into conversation with two chaps in their late 30s who remembered the Nineties, when Torre’s clubbing scene was at its height. 

They were on an all-inclusive package, but had left their hotel for this one night out of their week.

Inviting: A view of La Carihuela beach and promenade - gone are the hoardes of rowdy holidaymakers

‘That was the deal with the wives,’ explained one with tattoos. ‘We take the children to the crocodile park in the afternoon and we get the evening off.’

‘What was the crocodile park like?’ I asked. ‘Full of crocodiles.’

What were they planning to do with their hard-earned Brownie points? ‘Finish this beer,’ said the tattooed one, ‘then we’re off to a little Spanish place we found. The tapas is brilliant.’

‘You’re not going to paint the town red, then?’